Buxa Tiger Reserve & Jayanti, Alipurduar

By admin, 20 November, 2025

Forget what you know about tiger reserves. While it bears the name, Buxa (often abbreviated as BTR) is not a place for easy, open-jeep sightings of a big cat. This is a land you experience on foot. It’s a place of dense forests that climb 1,750 metres to the Bhutan border, of mist-shrouded historical ruins, and of a vast, bone-white riverbed that, in itself, is one of North Bengal's most iconic sights.

The experience here is defined by two key areas: Rajabhatkhawa, the administrative gateway for permits, and Jayanti, a hauntingly beautiful, sparse village on the banks of the eponymous (and mostly dry) river. This is the wild heart of the Dooars.

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Permits: Permits are non-negotiable. All entry permits for Buxa Tiger Reserve, vehicle permits, and safari bookings must be obtained from the Forest Office at Rajabhatkhawa. This is your first stop. You cannot enter Jayanti or start the Buxa Fort trek without this.

Guides: A forest guide is mandatory for all treks (Buxa Fort, Pokhri, Mahakal) and safaris. Your guide can be hired at the entry gates.

Getting There

By Train: The main station is Alipurduar Junction (APDJ), about 30 km (1 hour) from Jayanti. New Alipurduar (NOQ) is also a major hub.

By Air: The nearest airport is Bagdogra (IXB), which is a long 4-5 hour drive away.

Getting Around

You are reliant on private vehicles. It's best to hire a car (like a Sumo or Bolero) from Alipurduar Junction for your entire trip, to get you to Rajabhatkhawa for permits, drop you at Jayanti, and take you to the trek starting points.

Where to stay

This is homestay country. Jayanti is a village of small, family-run homestays and a few simple lodges. Rooms are basic but clean, and the hospitality is warm. The WBFDC (Forest Department) Lodge in Jayanti offers a fantastic location right on the riverbank but must be booked months in advance. Rajabhatkhawa also has a few lodges, including the WBFDC Buxa Jungle Lodge.

Where to eat

Prepare for simple, delicious, and fresh home-cooked Bengali food. Your homestay is your restaurant. The menu is usually set: hot luchi (puffed bread) and alur dum (spicy potatoes) for breakfast, and a thali of rice, dal, fresh vegetables, and either a local river fish curry or a hearty chicken curry for lunch and dinner.

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The park is open from mid-October to mid-June. The absolute best weather is from November to February, when the skies are clear and the air is cool.

Avoid: The monsoon (mid-June to mid-September) when the park is closed, and the Jayanti River can become a dangerous, raging torrent.

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