Forget what you know about tiger reserves. While it bears the name, Buxa (often abbreviated as BTR) is not a place for easy, open-jeep sightings of a big cat. This is a land you experience on foot. It’s a place of dense forests that climb 1,750 metres to the Bhutan border, of mist-shrouded historical ruins, and of a vast, bone-white riverbed that, in itself, is one of North Bengal's most iconic sights.