Tucked away in the red-earth landscapes of Bankura district in western West Bengal, Mukutmanipur is one of those rare destinations that has managed to remain blissfully under the radar. Named for the crown-like ring of hillocks (mukut means crown) that encircle it, this small settlement sits at the confluence of the Kangsabati and Kumari rivers, where India's second-longest earthen dam has created a vast, mirror-still reservoir stretching across 86 square kilometres.