Tucked away in the far reaches of North Bengal, just before the Assam border, Cooch Behar feels like a city dreaming of its past. Once the seat of the princely Koch dynasty, this isn't your typical chaotic Bengali town. It is a place of wide avenues, calm lakes (dighis), and a skyline dominated not by high-rises, but by a palace that looks like it was teleported straight from Renaissance Italy.