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For a wonderfully low-key, close-quarters experience of the river, you can take one of the informal boat rides offered by local fishermen on the reservoir above the barrage. There is no official jetty or booking system; simply walk to the bank in the early morning, approach one of the fishermen, agree a price, and step aboard. Dawn is the ideal time: the water is still, mist sometimes lingers, and the bird-life is at its most active.
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