History hangs heavy in the air of Murshidabad, a town sleeping on the banks of the Bhagirathi River. This was not always a quiet backwater; it was the grand capital of the Nawabs of Bengal, a city whose wealth was once compared to that of London. Murshidabad didn’t become a capital by accident. It takes its name from Nawab Murshid Quli Khan, the administrator who shifted the seat of Bengal’s power here and turned a riverside settlement into the nerve centre of an empire of trade, tax, and intrigue.