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Five kilometres from Belpahari, the Tarafeni river is checked by a modest 1980s-era irrigation barrage that has, against its engineers' intentions, become one of the prettier spots on the circuit. The reservoir reaches back into a landscape of low forested hills; sunsets here are unreasonably good; and the walk along the embankment is the kind of unfussed, unofficial thing that makes Bengal rural tourism quietly excellent. Bring a thermos and a book.
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