Address: Base of Howrah Bridge, Kolkata side
Timing: Open 24 hours; peak trade 2-8am
The supply chain of the sacred: every garland offered at every temple and household shrine in Kolkata passes through here first. One of the largest flower markets in Asia, processing thousands of tonnes daily, entirely informal and entirely efficient. Flowers arrive by wooden country boat from the Hooghly and South 24 Parganas districts between 2 and 5am, hand-carried up the ghat steps by porters. Arrive 5-7am for the overlap between winding-down wholesale trade and the retail trade’s opening. The colour at this hour (terracotta steps, banana-leaf wrapping, mounded marigolds, tuberose, roses, under the bridge’s grey steel) is among the most visually arresting ordinary sights in Kolkata, made more so by its total indifference to being photographed. It’s a working commercial space: approach with courtesy, don’t obstruct porters carrying loads and keep a respectful distance from transactions.
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