Distance: From Ajodhya Hilltop, 3.8km to Upper Dam More, then a right turn and another 3.8km to the Bamni car park. From Purulia town, about 47km. From Murguma, 35-40km
Entry: Nominal charge
Gate hours: Until 4pm
The Place: If Murguma is the still, contemplative half of this pairing, Bamni is the dramatic one. Set deep in the southern flank of the Ajodhya Hills, the falls drop in a series of steps down a forested gorge, sometimes described, with some plausibility, as the highest waterfall in southern West Bengal. They form part of the catchment for the Lower Dam of the Purulia Pumped Storage Project (PPSP), the cleverly engineered hydroelectric scheme that pumps water uphill at night when grid demand is low and releases it through turbines by day. So the falls are simultaneously a wild-feeling, forest-shrouded natural wonder and an essential cog in West Bengal's electricity infrastructure. The descent, which consists of roughly 500 steps divided into two halves, is a downward trek rather than an upward hike. The first stretch is smooth, well-graded concrete and merely tiring. The second stretch is rougher: irregular stone, occasionally damp, with handrails that come and go. Wear proper shoes with grip. Sandals are a mistake.
Climb down: Take it slowly, especially after the monsoon. The full descent and ascent will take a fit visitor about an hour and a half; allow longer if you want to linger at the bottom or photograph in stages. There are landings to stop and breathe at; use them.
Get to the pool at the base: The water cascades into a natural plunge pool clear enough to swim in, though the rocks are slippery and the depth varies. Children should be supervised constantly. Soaking your feet is universally agreed to be one of the great small pleasures of the trip.
Photograph the descent itself: Many visitors are so focused on the waterfall that they miss the framing of the steps as they zigzag down through the canopy. Pause halfway and look back uphill.
What to Bring
- Water (more than you think as there's nothing for sale below the gate)
- Light snacks
- A small umbrella or rain jacket in monsoon
- Basic first-aid
- Cash for the modest entry/parking fees and any roadside vendors at the top
- A sealable plastic bag for your phone if visiting in monsoon
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