Proceeding south through the Rajbari compound, beyond a decorative, flat-roofed building, you arrive at the Pancharatna group. This fascinating visual family consists of five aat-chala temples. Though each is built in the eight-roofed style, their varying sizes and subtly differing proportions create a unique and appealing ensemble. Note that 'pancharatna' here refers not to five-pinnacled architecture but to a cluster of five temples. Beside them, the Rupeswar Temple illustrates the flat-roofed form of Bengal temple construction, providing the fourth of the major styles on show in the compound.
Krishna Chandraji Temple (1751-1752
The second of Kalna’s three 25-pinnacled temples, and in some respects the most visually commanding. Maharaja Trilokchandra built this temple, which distinguishes itself from the Lalji Temple with its open design, featuring a three-arched entrance on all four sides. The front façade is richly adorned with delicate and detailed terracotta ornamentation, showcasing scenes from the epics. These include mythological episodes, vignettes of daily life and depictions of boating on rivers, all rendered with a scale that warrants very close examination. The Krishna Chandra Temple complex also contains several subsidiary structures including the Vijay Vaidyanath Temple (a large aat-chala structure), Badrinarayan Temple, Radhavallabh Temple and Ramsita Temple. Allow 20-30 minutes for the whole sub-compound.
Beyond the Rajbari: The Outer Temples
Gopalbari Temple
The third of Kalna’s 25-pinnacled temples, outside the Rajbari compound to the south-east. Its 25 pinnacles are in the same mathematical arrangement as the Lalji and Krishna Chandra temples, but Gopalbari has a slightly less polished state of preservation that paradoxically gives it a more intimate, less curated character. If you aim to see all three of Kalna’s Panchavimshati Ratna temples, this one is worth seeking out. With only five such temples remaining in all of West Bengal, ticking this one off offers a particular satisfaction for the completist.
Siddheswari Kali Temple
The oldest temple in Ambika Kalna by a significant margin, and the one from which the town takes its name. Kalna is named for the goddess Kali in her form as Maa Ambika, and she is enshrined here. The temple was established in 688 CE according to local tradition (by the sage Amburish), though the current structure dates from considerably later. The image of Maa Ambika is carved from a single neem log and represents Bamakali; she is worshipped specially on the new moon of the Bengali month Kartik. The jor-bangla (twin-hut) style of the main shrine is one of the oldest temple forms in Bengal, and the complex includes three additional aat-chala temples. The spiritual weight of this temple, particularly its role as the town’s tutelary goddess, gives it an intensity of devotional atmosphere that the more famous ASI-protected sites sometimes lack.
Immediately adjacent is the Ananta Basudev Temple, housing a four-foot black stone idol of Basudev (Vishnu). This large aat-chala structure was once covered in terracotta panels, but unscientific restoration has unfortunately obscured most of the original work. The idol itself, however, is a powerful and deeply venerated presence.
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